A Buddhist Territory in my country taught me about culture

The Old Silk route in the Indian Himalayas is a rare confluence of natural beauty and history of human civilization.

A glimpse at the lesser-known parts of East Sikkim at the dawn of summer

India is one of the most diverse countries on the planet. Being a citizen of this country means you have experienced culture shocks more than once.

My biggest culture shock happened when my best friend and I decided to take a trip to Sikkim, a small northeastern state bordered by Nepal and Bhutan. There is nothing India-like about Sikkim and nothing Sikkim-like in the rest of India.

A brief history of Sikkim:

1. The Kingdom of Sikkim was founded by the Namgyal dynasty in the 17th century. It was ruled by Buddhist priest-kings known as the Chogyal. It became a princely state of British India in 1890.
2. Following Indian independence, Sikkim continued its status with the Union of India after 1947.
3. In 1973, anti-royalist riots took place in front of the Chogyal’s palace. After the Indian Army took over the city of Gangtok, a referendum was held that led to the fall of the monarchy. Sikkim joined India as its 22nd state.

The Old Silk Route which passes through Bhutan and East Sikkim is quite less traveled but expected to have been discovered by traders as early as First Century AD. This part of Himalayas is one of the most inhospitable regions on Earth as most of the mountain passes are above 14,000 feet (4,267 m). The region stays snow-ridden from November to April.

My Culture Shocks

It was a long train journey to the foothills bordering the state of Sikkim. We had been severely train-lagged (if that’s even a thing) but the silhouette of the mighty Himalayas from afar made it instantly relaxing.

I knew the experience was going to be different credits to the jaw-dropping sceneries I had seen on travel blogs, Instagram, etc.

We were also aware of the history of the Old Silk Route, but in the end, it all boils down to the vibe of the place. We didn’t expect such a stark contrast in the people and their culture, as if they weren’t a part of the same country.

Cleanliness and Hygiene

As Indians, we do not have the privilege to clean spaces everywhere except our homes and if lucky, our neighborhoods. We often talk about clean streets and hygiene after returning from Europe or America. The necessity of public hygiene is still not taken seriously here.

Sikkim had us in shock as soon as we crossed the state border, there were almost no litters on the street. Every street had garbage containers reasonably spaced out. We see huge dumpster breeding with mosquitoes elsewhere. They are aware of their waste disposal, often called the NGO of our country.

The streams which pass through their towns are crystal clear as it is their main source of fresh water. Residents use this water for drinking and growing vegetables — almost every home has an organic garden, thus no need for farmer’s markets.

Shared needs are highly prioritized, often promoting mass cooperation leading to strong social bonds.

Portrait of feet swinging above one of the countless streams

Woman empowerment and security

It gave me hope, allowed me to believe that there is some sense in us, and made me proud to be amongst them. Women play a big role in the Sikkimese lifestyle, they do the majority of the work. They are the backbone of the family that binds it together. The education of girls is not seen as an option rather it’s a necessity.

Sikkim has the third-highest per capita alcoholism rate amongst all Indian states. Regardless of the situation, there is a common respect for women in each family and are viewed as a symbol of strength, courage, and wisdom.

Respect nurtures responsibility that is embedded in children from a young age. The state has the highest literacy rate among the Himalayan states even though their GDP only depends on agriculture and tourism.

The core values of Buddhism have rubbed off into the fabric of Sikkimese society, which is a mix of Hinduism, Vajrayana Buddhism, and others.

Communities, cultures, religions, and customs of different hues intermingle here in Sikkim to constitute a homogeneous blend.

Spiraling road of 32 hairpin bends in Zuluk

Chapters of Kindness

In today’s world, Kindness is probably one of the most underrated attributes. It is motivated by the desire to help another and not to gain explicit rewards or to avoid punishment. Being kind is the most powerful characteristic of a human being.

I experienced kindness not once or twice, it came from all sides in different shapes and sizes. Their active gestures born out of warm feelings for others almost moved me to tears. Some evocations of the journey were:

• We were offered chai (tea) and biscuits at almost every spot we stopped at, sometimes even for free in return for a heart-warming chat. It was off-season, so there was no point in giving something for free especially if you rely on tourists. All I received was love in a rather unlikely package.
• Every random conversation with a stranger was a string of joy in my worldview of endless despair. They would open their hearts to you — one of the gentlemen shared his immersive Indo-China war stories in about 15 minutes. His energy and ability to connect at that age fascinated me.
• Our driver Goray Tamang, brought his girlfriend along with us for a brief drive up to a monastery. We got into conversations about Buddhism and relationships. Those moments did not feel forced rather it flowed smoothly as if we were long-time friends. So much positivity led me to believe that like poles do attract each other!
• The way everyone greeted with a warm smile, soothing voice, and eyes filled with empathy made me want to believe that all that wasn’t true. I didn’t feel worthy of such kindness.

I used to think that I deserved all the good things in life only when I do good to others but that’s my naivete. You cannot put a price on compassion.

Conclusion

I have covered only half of my experience in words here, the truth is Sikkim is so much more than this. I couldn’t have asked for a better trip, it taught me so much about the Sikkimese people, the region rich in flora-fauna, history, and culture. To top it off, watching the morning ray of sunshine hitting Mt. Kanchenjunga which turned it into a shining golden triangle is still the biggest highlight of my life.

An ideal culture is a culmination of powerful ingredients like arts, ideas, customs, values, and social behavior falling in the right hands. Even in a fast-paced world, Sikkim has held on to an enriched culture that seems right for them and passes it on to the younger generations.